Baiba Rieber

Hand Embroidery & Historical Sewing

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Riding habit

Today men and women wear jackets without thinking like it’s nothing and it is 🙂 but back in 19th century, tailored jackets traditionally were reserved for men except in one case – women doing sports. One of the sports activities where women were able to participate was horse riding and hunting. For such a “masculine” activity it also required a masculine style outfit. Quoting “19th Century in Detail” : “For much of the 19th century female wore dark woolen tailored jackets – riding habits inspired by men’s coats. By the 1880’s their dress was so similar that some observers noted that from a distance it was difficult to distinguish very young ladies from young gentleman. This was no doubt helped by the fashion of wearing bowlers, top hats, cravats, waistcoats and trousers under skirts.” By the end of 19th century tailored jackets in various styles were worn for different women’s sports and social activities – tennis, bike riding, suffragettes movement, work etc.

The design of this jacket is based on an actual 19th century pattern as it was created to fit over a corseted body. But as the purpose of this jacket was not to represent the history and my client’s needs were not historical accuracy (just to be able to wear this jacket over a corset she likes to wear), certain jacket design elements were “upgraded” to contemporary needs and looks, like the sleeves for example. This tailored jacket is fully lined with double welt pockets on the inside.

Mūsdienās ir pieņemts, ka žakete ir gan vīriešu, gan sieviešu garderobes sastāvdaļa, bet 19.gadsimtā,  drēbnieka darinātu žaketi bija ierasts valkāt tikai vīriešu kārtas pārstāvjiem. Šim “likumam” bija viens izņēmums – sievietes, piedaloties sporta aktivitātēs. Sākotnēji viena no sporta aktivitātēm, kurās sievietes varēja piedalīties bija zirgu izjādes. Šādai “vīrišķīgai” aktivitātei pienācās arī atbilstošs tērps. Citējot grāmatu 19th Century In Detail : “Lai piedalītos izjādēs, 19.gs. sievietes savā garderobē ieviesa vilnas auduma žaketes tumšos toņos, kuru izskats tika aizgūts no 19.gs. vīriešu mēteļiem. 1880. gadu beigās daži novērojuši, ka pa gabalu vairs nevar atšķirt jaunu sievieti no jauna džentlmeņa. Protams, šim faktam nepalīdzēja arī daži citi no vīriešu garderobes aizgūti elementi – kravates, cepures, vestes un bikses zem svārkiem.” 19. gs. noslēgumā sieviete žaketē jau sāka parādīties arī citās sporta un sociālajās aktivitātēs – spēlējot tenisu, braucot ar riteni, piedaloties sufražistu kustībā, ejot strādāt u.c.

Tā kā šī žakete paredzēta valkāšanai virs korsetes, žaketes dizains tika balstīts uz 19.gs. piegrieztni. Šīs žaketes mērķis nebija reprezentēt vēsturi vai rekonstruēt modes vēsturi detaļās, tādēļ žaketes dizains tika papildināts pēc klientes prasībām un dažas detaļas, piemēram, piedurknes uzlabotas mūsdienu vajadzībām un izskatam. Žakete ir pilnībā oderēta ar divām izgrieztajām iekškabatām žaketes oderē.

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© Baiba Rieber, 2017-2023. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Baiba Rieber with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

How cool this box really is? I made someone excited to take the daily pills... Quoting the owner: 'There is nothing glamourous in the fact that you must take the  pills to support your body, but at least you can do it glamourously.' #baibarieber #boxmakingskills This embroidered box is a custom made pill box that all together consists of 67 individually measured and manually cut miniature pieces that later were covered with precisely fit silk fabric. The pill box has 7 separate sections with a hidden magnetic snap closure. Each section of the box represents a day of the week therefore the lids are decorated with hand embroidered monograms in goldwork and applique techniques. To open each section more easily, antique metal paper fasteners were attached to the the front of the box for where the finger could catch on. Each paper fastener – knob measures 2 mm in diametr, but the whole pill box together measures only 20 x 3 cm. #baibarieber #goldworkembroidery #boxmaking #pillbox #cartonnage #greenvelvet #blacksilk Progress is slow but I'm almost there. #pillbox #cartonnage #greenvelvet #goldworkembroidery #monogram Making 7 tiny lids for the new embroidered box project. Here I'm using antique paper fasteners that I found @monticelloantiquemarketplace years ago. Back then I had no idea where I'm going to use them but now I'm so glad I bought them. Box coming soon #embroideredbox #cartonnage #pillbox When work inspires itself - a random arrangement on my table. Multiple stringed beads and sequins from @broderieplaisir Learned tips & tricks while embroidering silk tulle ABC and made notes for myself about Luneville hook embroidery. It was also a great finger excersise before I'm going to Ecole Lesage this spring. I'm not sure yet, how devoted I will be to the #lunevillembroidery technique. As I'm stitching this cord on the #silktulle with tiny invisible stitches, twisting and turning to make the effects, I realize that I'm enjoying too much working from the right side of work and seeing how my embroidery develops right in front of my eyes. When working with #lunevillehook the job is done from the wrong side of the work (often), letting only your fingers see the progress. I don't know yet, discovery is also a process. #irenagasha_training #vps_tulle Work in progress...On a New Years eve a head pops in my studio asking: - Hey, what are you doing? Me: - Struggling with tension! (a struggle that once in a while every embroiderer faces when tightening a tricky fabric in the frame) Thank you @irenagasha for setting new challenges and sharing your knowledge once again! #irenagasha_training #lunevillembroidery #embroideryontulle #luneville #embroiderytechniques #vps_tulle Ja arī tev ir zināms kāds ļoti nozīmīgs putns un vēl svarīgāks cilvēks, kurš sev to vēlētos izšūtas piespraudes formātā, sūti man ziņu, jo līdz Ziemassvētkiem varu vēl vienu paspēt 🐦/ Few more pics from the Corvus cornix. If you have a bird in mind I can make it happen for you. What's on the other side of a crow? #embroideredcrow #crowpin #handembroidery Getting judgemental looks while putting it together. Swipe right for the close-up of this Corvus cornix face #crow #embroideredcrow #handembroidery #embroideredpin #embroideredbird #commisionedcraft #embroideredbirds #embroideredbirdsofinstagram #crowofjudgement #crowofinstagram #baibarieber I have crow's feet jeb man ir vārnu kājiņas 🤷🏻‍♀️
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