Today men and women wear jackets without thinking like it’s nothing and it is 🙂 but back in 19th century, tailored jackets traditionally were reserved for men except in one case – women doing sports. One of the sports activities where women were able to participate was horse riding and hunting. For such a “masculine” activity it also required a masculine style outfit. Quoting “19th Century in Detail” : “For much of the 19th century female wore dark woolen tailored jackets – riding habits inspired by men’s coats. By the 1880’s their dress was so similar that some observers noted that from a distance it was difficult to distinguish very young ladies from young gentleman. This was no doubt helped by the fashion of wearing bowlers, top hats, cravats, waistcoats and trousers under skirts.” By the end of 19th century tailored jackets in various styles were worn for different women’s sports and social activities – tennis, bike riding, suffragettes movement, work etc.

The design of this jacket is based on an actual 19th century pattern as it was created to fit over a corseted body. But as the purpose of this jacket was not to represent the history and my client’s needs were not historical accuracy (just to be able to wear this jacket over a corset she likes to wear), certain jacket design elements were “upgraded” to contemporary needs and looks, like the sleeves for example. This tailored jacket is fully lined with double welt pockets on the inside.

Mūsdienās ir pieņemts, ka žakete ir gan vīriešu, gan sieviešu garderobes sastāvdaļa, bet 19.gadsimtā,  drēbnieka darinātu žaketi bija ierasts valkāt tikai vīriešu kārtas pārstāvjiem. Šim “likumam” bija viens izņēmums – sievietes, piedaloties sporta aktivitātēs. Sākotnēji viena no sporta aktivitātēm, kurās sievietes varēja piedalīties bija zirgu izjādes. Šādai “vīrišķīgai” aktivitātei pienācās arī atbilstošs tērps. Citējot grāmatu 19th Century In Detail : “Lai piedalītos izjādēs, 19.gs. sievietes savā garderobē ieviesa vilnas auduma žaketes tumšos toņos, kuru izskats tika aizgūts no 19.gs. vīriešu mēteļiem. 1880. gadu beigās daži novērojuši, ka pa gabalu vairs nevar atšķirt jaunu sievieti no jauna džentlmeņa. Protams, šim faktam nepalīdzēja arī daži citi no vīriešu garderobes aizgūti elementi – kravates, cepures, vestes un bikses zem svārkiem.” 19. gs. noslēgumā sieviete žaketē jau sāka parādīties arī citās sporta un sociālajās aktivitātēs – spēlējot tenisu, braucot ar riteni, piedaloties sufražistu kustībā, ejot strādāt u.c.

Tā kā šī žakete paredzēta valkāšanai virs korsetes, žaketes dizains tika balstīts uz 19.gs. piegrieztni. Šīs žaketes mērķis nebija reprezentēt vēsturi vai rekonstruēt modes vēsturi detaļās, tādēļ žaketes dizains tika papildināts pēc klientes prasībām un dažas detaļas, piemēram, piedurknes uzlabotas mūsdienu vajadzībām un izskatam. Žakete ir pilnībā oderēta ar divām izgrieztajām iekškabatām žaketes oderē.