Baiba Rieber

Hand Embroidery & Historical Sewing

Menu

Skip to content
  • About
  • Embroidery
  • Workshops
  • Historical Sewing
    • Buttons
    • 1880’s bustle dress
    • Underwear of the late 1880’s
    • Corsetry
    • 50’s Floral frock
    • Riding habit
    • Summer dress
    • Norfolk jacket
  • Blog
  • Contact

Norfolk jacket

This jacket is based on the Norfolk jacket – a men’s jacket style that once was important item in a gentleman’s wardrobe. It was originally worn by the Rifle Corps in the Volunteer Movement of 1859-1860 and was adapted for shooting costume during the 1860’s. It was initially known as the ‘Norfolk shirt’ and was at first strictly reserved for country wear. With the growth in leisure activities and sporting pursuits during the 1870’s and 1880’s the Norfolk jacket became acceptable for any form of outdoor exercise, ‘being especially suited for bicycling, business, fishing, pleasuring, and the moorland’ (Tailor and Cutter, April 1888). By the 1890’s conventions had become so relaxed that smart young men were seen wearing Norfolk jackets even in the city. The Norfolk jacket was often made of Harris tweed and homespun. It was frequently teamed up with matching knickerbockers and a soft cap such as a deerstalker. Its distinctive features were a box pleat at the center back and another passing down each forepart. It also had a belt made of the same material. Traditionally the shoulder seam would be more on the jacket’s back, but according to the customer’s request it was moved to the center of the shoulder, which is more common in jackets nowadays. 
/Victoria & Albert Museum, Textiles and Fashion collection/
Žakete tapusi pēc 19.gs. Norfolk žaketes parauga – vīriešu žakete, kas kādreiz bijusi neatņemama džentlmeņu garderobes sastāvdaļa. Žaketes pirmsākumi meklējami 1859./1860. gadā, kad tā bija  brīvprātīgo kustības Rifle Corps uniforma. 1860. gados žakete tika adaptēta medībām. Sākotnēji to sauca par “Norfolkas kreklu”, kas attiecīgi tā laika etiķetei bija strikti velkams tikai aktivitātēm laukos. Sportam, atpūtai brīvā dabā un dažādiem āra vaļaspriekiem kļūstot populārākiem, 1870.-ajos un 1880.-ajos gados arī Norfolkas žaketes popularitāte pieauga un tā kļuva “pieņemams” apģērba gabals arī ārpus lauku teritorijām. “It īpaši piemērota riteņbraukšanai, biznesam, makšķerēšanai, atpūtai un pārgājienos tīrelī, ceļošanai” (Tailor and Cutter, 1888, aprīļa izdevums). 1890. gados sabiedrības uzskatiem kļūstot relaksētākiem, pat pilsētas ielās varēja sastapt gados jaunākus vīriešus tērpušos Norfolkas žaketē. Šī veida žakete parasti tika darināta no vilnas auduma, tvīda un visbiežāk tika vilkta kopā ar kuplām īsbiksēm (knickerbockers) un brīva stila cepuri. Žaketes atpazīstamības zīmes vienmēr ir ieloce centrā uz muguras un divas ieloces priekšdaļā, kā arī atsevišķi velkama josta un dziļas kabatas. 19.gs. beigās žaketes pleca vīle būtu vairāk pleca aimugures daļā, bet pēc klienta vēmēm tā tika pārvietota pleca centrā, kā tas vairāk ierasts mūsdienās. 
IMG_20170920_113042
19th century. A man wearing a type of Norfolk jacket.
Widgets

© Baiba Rieber, 2017-2023. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Baiba Rieber with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Learned tips & tricks while embroidering silk tulle ABC and made notes for myself about Luneville hook embroidery. It was also a great finger excersise before I'm going to Ecole Lesage this spring. I'm not sure yet, how devoted I will be to the #lunevillembroidery technique. As I'm stitching this cord on the #silktulle with tiny invisible stitches, twisting and turning to make the effects, I realize that I'm enjoying too much working from the right side of work and seeing how my embroidery develops right in front of my eyes. When working with #lunevillehook the job is done from the wrong side of the work (often), letting only your fingers see the progress. I don't know yet, discovery is also a process. #irenagasha_training #vps_tulle Work in progress...On a New Years eve a head pops in my studio asking: - Hey, what are you doing? Me: - Struggling with tension! (a struggle that once in a while every embroiderer faces when tightening a tricky fabric in the frame) Thank you @irenagasha for setting new challenges and sharing your knowledge once again! #irenagasha_training #lunevillembroidery #embroideryontulle #luneville #embroiderytechniques #vps_tulle Ja arī tev ir zināms kāds ļoti nozīmīgs putns un vēl svarīgāks cilvēks, kurš sev to vēlētos izšūtas piespraudes formātā, sūti man ziņu, jo līdz Ziemassvētkiem varu vēl vienu paspēt 🐦/ Few more pics from the Corvus cornix. If you have a bird in mind I can make it happen for you. What's on the other side of a crow? #embroideredcrow #crowpin #handembroidery Getting judgemental looks while putting it together. Swipe right for the close-up of this Corvus cornix face #crow #embroideredcrow #handembroidery #embroideredpin #embroideredbird #commisionedcraft #embroideredbirds #embroideredbirdsofinstagram #crowofjudgement #crowofinstagram #baibarieber I have crow's feet jeb man ir vārnu kājiņas 🤷🏻‍♀️ Hey there, I'm still here and still stitching :) although I must say I had to go through a rough patch while figuring out how to regain my personal balance in this challenging period of crazy inflation, war, brexit and broken supply chains without loosing myself, my skills and creativity. Some things had to be put aside and I can definitely say that in the nearest future you will see here a lot more hand embroidery and small scale work rather than sewing clothing and hosting workshops. Also IG posts will be less frequent as I'm trying to combine a full time job with the embroidery comissions. I'm currently working on a couple of needlepainted birds and an embroidered miniature box. Stay tuned ❤️ Baiba I guess I did allright if a three year old recognised himself in a portrait. A portrait of a young gentleman. Ēnu drupačas. #handembroidery #monochrome #monochromeembroidery #embroideredportrait #blackandwhiteembroidery #blackworkembroidery Coming up next - a portrait of a very much loved, special person. Playing with light and shadow. #monochromeembroidery #monochrome #embroideredportrait #blackworkembroidery #handembroidery #blackandwhiteembroidery #withneedleandthread #baibarieber #izšuvums #izšūtsarroku #portrets /Eng below/ Kāpēc portreti ir kastītē? Dagerotipi mūsdienās ir retums to trausluma dēļ. Lai pasargātu dagerotipus no gaisa, gaismas, mitruma un laika, uzreiz pēc fotografēšanas tie tika ievietoti mazās, smalki izstrādātās kastītēs. Kastītes iekšpusē dagerotipi parasti likti ar dekoratīvu metāla rāmējumu un polsterēti ar samta oderīti uz kuras nereti redzams kāds dekoratīvs motīvs reljefā. Ne vienmēr rūpīgi veidotā kastīte spējusi apturēt “laika zobu”. Apzinoties dagerotipu trauslumu un retumu, tas sķiet brīnums, ka tos iespējams apūkot arī mūsdienās.
Latest news
ask me a question
order
get inspired
learn
  • Instagram
Website Powered by WordPress.com.
  • Follow Following
    • Baiba Rieber
    • Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
    • Baiba Rieber
    • Customize
    • Follow Following
    • Sign up
    • Log in
    • Copy shortlink
    • Report this content
    • View post in Reader
    • Manage subscriptions
    • Collapse this bar
 

Loading Comments...