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1880’s bustle dress

Reconstructed bustle day dress from the 1880’s. In Europe this period is also known as the second bustle era. This dress is constructed like it used to be constructed back then and is made to fit a corseted body that also would be wearing all of the appropriate underwear layers of the time, just like it used to be.
For upper / upper-middle class people there were multiple types of outfits, each worn at the appropriate time of the day and / or activity. This outfit is more appropriate for day wear, leisure walks or yachting. I based this design on several fashion plates and portraits from 1880’s (see few examples below). The inside as well as the outside is finished appropriately for the period. Other than the underwear layers this outfit consists of an underskirt with a velvet trim around the hem, a draped overskirt and a bodice that also is flatlined and boned. The bodice creates an illusion that it consists from a shirt, vest and a jacket with velvet lapels resembling a men’s suit while actually the bodice is all in one – a popular women’s bodice style at the time. The back of the bodice has cascade folds that helps to finish off the typical silhouette of the second bustle era and when the outfit is viewed from the side the bustle sets a 90 degree angle from the back. The overskirt’s folds and drapes create extra volume at the back part only, while the sides and front remain slim. The underskirt has a hidden side pocket.


© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
© Baiba Rieber
1880. gadu sievietes tērpa rekonstrukcija. Eiropā šis laika posms zināms arī kā otrais turnīra laikmets. Šis tērps ir konstruēts un darināts tieši ar tādām pašām metodēm, kā tas būtu tapis 19.gs. beigās. Tērps domāts vilkšanai virs korsetes un visām tam laikam atbilstošajām apakšveļas kārtām. Šajā laika posmā turīgākā sabiedrības daļa dienas laikā tērpus nomainīja vairākkārt – atkarībā no pulksteņa laika un/vai plānotajām aktivitātēm. Šis tērps, kuru darināju balstoties uz 1880. gadu modes gravīrām un fotoportretiem (dažus piemērus skatīt zemāk), būtu vairāk domāts laiskām pastaigām vai izbraucienam ar jahtu. Tērps gan tā ārpusē, gan iekšpusē ir apstrādāts vēsturiski precīzā manierē. Bez tērpam tik nepieciešamās vēsturiskās apakšveļas, tas sastāv no apakšsvārkiem, kas gar apakšmalu dekorēti ar samta auduma joslu, radot vairākkārtu iespaidu, no drapētiem virssvārkiem un no ņiebura daļas, kas, tāpat kā korsete, arī ir oderēta un ar ribiņām formas uzturēšanai. Augšdaļa rada ilūziju, ka tā sastāv no žaketes ar atlokiem, vestes un krekla, tērpa detaļas it kā aizņemoties no vīriešu garderobes, bet patiesībā augšdaļa ir viss vienā – tam laikam ļoti populāra tendence. Augšdaļas mugurpusē atrodas kaskādes formas ieloces, kas tikai pabeidz tolaik tik tipisko sievietes siluetu – skatoties profilā, aizmugures turnīrs iezīmē 90 grādu lenķi attiecībā pret muguru. Virssvārku drapērijas papildina turnīra apjomu, bet tikai aizmugures daļā, atstājot tērpa sānus un priekšdaļu salīdzinoši pieguļošu augumam. Apakšvārku sānu vīlē iestrādāta slēptā kabata, kas arī ir vēsturiski atbilstošs elements.
  • 1880’s bustle dress inspiration
  • 1880’s bustle dress inspiration
  • 1880’s bustle dress inspiration
  • 1880’s bustle dress inspiration
  • 1880’s bustle dress inspiration
  • 1880’s bustle dress inspiration
  • 1880’s bustle dress inspiration
  • 1880’s bustle dress inspiration

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© Baiba Rieber, 2017-2023. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Baiba Rieber with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Learned tips & tricks while embroidering silk tulle ABC and made notes for myself about Luneville hook embroidery. It was also a great finger excersise before I'm going to Ecole Lesage this spring. I'm not sure yet, how devoted I will be to the #lunevillembroidery technique. As I'm stitching this cord on the #silktulle with tiny invisible stitches, twisting and turning to make the effects, I realize that I'm enjoying too much working from the right side of work and seeing how my embroidery develops right in front of my eyes. When working with #lunevillehook the job is done from the wrong side of the work (often), letting only your fingers see the progress. I don't know yet, discovery is also a process. #irenagasha_training #vps_tulle Work in progress...On a New Years eve a head pops in my studio asking: - Hey, what are you doing? Me: - Struggling with tension! (a struggle that once in a while every embroiderer faces when tightening a tricky fabric in the frame) Thank you @irenagasha for setting new challenges and sharing your knowledge once again! #irenagasha_training #lunevillembroidery #embroideryontulle #luneville #embroiderytechniques #vps_tulle Ja arī tev ir zināms kāds ļoti nozīmīgs putns un vēl svarīgāks cilvēks, kurš sev to vēlētos izšūtas piespraudes formātā, sūti man ziņu, jo līdz Ziemassvētkiem varu vēl vienu paspēt 🐦/ Few more pics from the Corvus cornix. If you have a bird in mind I can make it happen for you. What's on the other side of a crow? #embroideredcrow #crowpin #handembroidery Getting judgemental looks while putting it together. Swipe right for the close-up of this Corvus cornix face #crow #embroideredcrow #handembroidery #embroideredpin #embroideredbird #commisionedcraft #embroideredbirds #embroideredbirdsofinstagram #crowofjudgement #crowofinstagram #baibarieber I have crow's feet jeb man ir vārnu kājiņas 🤷🏻‍♀️ Hey there, I'm still here and still stitching :) although I must say I had to go through a rough patch while figuring out how to regain my personal balance in this challenging period of crazy inflation, war, brexit and broken supply chains without loosing myself, my skills and creativity. Some things had to be put aside and I can definitely say that in the nearest future you will see here a lot more hand embroidery and small scale work rather than sewing clothing and hosting workshops. Also IG posts will be less frequent as I'm trying to combine a full time job with the embroidery comissions. I'm currently working on a couple of needlepainted birds and an embroidered miniature box. Stay tuned ❤️ Baiba I guess I did allright if a three year old recognised himself in a portrait. A portrait of a young gentleman. Ēnu drupačas. #handembroidery #monochrome #monochromeembroidery #embroideredportrait #blackandwhiteembroidery #blackworkembroidery Coming up next - a portrait of a very much loved, special person. Playing with light and shadow. #monochromeembroidery #monochrome #embroideredportrait #blackworkembroidery #handembroidery #blackandwhiteembroidery #withneedleandthread #baibarieber #izšuvums #izšūtsarroku #portrets /Eng below/ Kāpēc portreti ir kastītē? Dagerotipi mūsdienās ir retums to trausluma dēļ. Lai pasargātu dagerotipus no gaisa, gaismas, mitruma un laika, uzreiz pēc fotografēšanas tie tika ievietoti mazās, smalki izstrādātās kastītēs. Kastītes iekšpusē dagerotipi parasti likti ar dekoratīvu metāla rāmējumu un polsterēti ar samta oderīti uz kuras nereti redzams kāds dekoratīvs motīvs reljefā. Ne vienmēr rūpīgi veidotā kastīte spējusi apturēt “laika zobu”. Apzinoties dagerotipu trauslumu un retumu, tas sķiet brīnums, ka tos iespējams apūkot arī mūsdienās.
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